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davew
Hi Ross, I would like to take the creation of draws and fades one step further by asking you how you would vary the height of these shots. I can draw and fade the ball by rotating the club shaft and adjusting the target line to start the ball as per your instruction. The draw closes the club face and naturally produces a lower trajectory than a fade where the face is opened up but what about hitting a high draw and low fade?
Assuming the ball position stays the same the only way to do this, it seems to me, is to alter the loft by variation of the hand position backwards and forwards. For example a high draw would have the club face closed with the hands further back than normal to give more loft. This cannot be done though with the shaft and left arm in a straight line - maybe this does not matter as long as you bring this 'template' back to the ball?
I am very interested to get your take on this.....
Ross
For a solid shot, you want the shaft in line with the front arm at setup and at impact ...always.  You do not want to try to get the hands further back (if you are talking about allowing the front wrist to bend in to accommodate what you're trying to do). The reason is, once the shaft is not in line with the front arm, it is now pre-flipped and in a weak position. It will not want to stay in that position during the backswing and downswing.  It will either find its way to align with the front arm during the swing (causing issues because it changed from setup), or there will be some use of the hands to help control the club head. 

My choice, if you need a high draw or low fade, would be to change clubs for the loft needed, and adjust the shaft length (choke down if too much) and get what you get if it is not enough length.

One important part of my method, and especially for presetting the club face for cut or draw is, as you align the club face to your target line, your alteration of the club face will dictate a closed or open stance, and the golfer must swing along those body lines.  The shoulders, hips, toes are all parallel to each other for every shot, and you swing along that line.  For example ... if you've opened the club face for a cut, once setup your body lines will be open.  You must swing along the body lines... left of where the club face is pointing (for a right hander).  Now, the ball will essentially go where the face is pointing at impact*.  In this case, we swing a bit left, but the ball cuts right.  Many golfers setup their feet left, but close their shoulders to the path the club face is pointing, or setup correctly, but try to swing along the path the club face is pointing to.  You have to trust that the ball will follow the path the face of the club is aimed at, even though you're swing along a different path.  This is hard for some to understand.

*I read somewhere (I think it was David Pelz) that 80% of face angle imparts on the ball, but only 20% of path affects the ball.  This essentially says, the ball is going where the face was pointing at impact, not where the path is pointing.

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davew
Thanks Ross, some good points there. I can see the problem one really is the high draw as you will run out of distance fairly quickly whereas with the low fade you can choke down on a lower lofted club. Also a good reminder to always maintain the straight line with left arm and club shaft whatever the situation. Thanks again.....
Ross
It is hard enough to hit a draw or a fade at will for most golfers, let alone trying to also change the loft.  Most golfers should (if they're in trouble and needing a low cut or high draw, get out of trouble first and hopefully get up around the green... then put the pressure on the next pitch shot vs. trying to pull off a shot that they might not have or have practiced, and get into more trouble.  Also, getting up close to the green protects their attitude, so they don't feel like things got worse.  Now, on the other hand, if you work on these shots and know you got them in your bag, (and you got to pull it off or lose a bet), then GO FOR IT![wink]

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